Wednesday, February 24, 2016

THE ACTUAL TRUTH ABOUT YEAST: Volume 2 Ale Yeast with Kevin Lane of Fermentis

Today we continue our series with Kevin Lane of Fermentis, and we are focused on Ale yeast.   We will be taking a basic look at Ale yeast biology, understanding some of the terms you hear associated with ale yeast, and talking about how to get the flavors you want from ale yeast.  Any thing in italics I added, or clarified.  

We will gain an understanding that temperature, pH, pitch rate, and wort composition are tools you can use to make the beer you want.  And this is a very important point.  Too often now on home brewing forums I hear guys espousing "rules" ... "you have to do this"  or "you must do that"   To me, it is clear that these guys do not want to understand, they want to follow a set of rules that will make them successful.  Unfortunately, true success requires understanding.   My old mentor used to say "Recipes are for people who can't, or wont understand"  I finally get what he meant.  He would check gravities during the mash, and add base grain.  He would check color against a chart and cap his mash with crystal grains.  He would even check pH and see if it was optimum for the fermentation phase.  All because he understood the process and enough of the microbiology to make the adjustments. 


Yes this is a long post,  but read it. 
This is the stuff you actually need to know!

And always remember,  Brewers make wort, yeast makes beer!

What is ale yeast?  What makes it different from lager yeast?


Ale yeast is defined as top fermenting yeast.  Ale yeast (saccharomyces cerevisiae)  is a different species from lager yeast (saccharomyces carlsbergensis (former} orpastorianus {current}). Ale yeast, also prefers to ferment at warmer (usually ambient) temperatures, whereas lager yeast prefers to ferment at cooler temperatures.  The yeasts don’t actually prefer one over the other, they just produce better flavors/aromas and may ferment “better” in human terms.  Ale yeast, additionally, has a much larger variety of flavor and aroma production, as lager yeast has been selected by humans for centuries and has been (intentionally)  limited in the genetic differences.  There are a large number of different ale yeasts available in the market: American, English, German, Belgian, French, etc.

So top cropping versus bottom cropping? (Taking yeast from active fermentation)

When you choose whether to top crop or bottom crop, you are selecting different phenotypes (genetic differences).  If you top crop, you will be selecting the yeast that is more likely to form branched groups of cells that get stuck in the krausen during fermentation.  Traditionally, German ales have been top cropped for many styles, but the most common is hefeweizens.  If you were to top crop and bottom crop from the same batch of beer (separately) and repitch into the next batch (separately), you would likely see a difference in flavor/aroma production.

Why can ale yeast perform at higher temperatures?


Ale yeast performs better at higher temperatures.  That isn’t to say that you can’t use lager yeast at higher temperatures (ex. W-34/70 at warmer temperatures); you can, there is just higher potential for off flavor development (sulfurs, meaty notes, cider type flavors, etc).  Ale yeast are and have been naturally occurring yeast strains in regions that have warmer typical temperatures.  There are different stories about lager yeast and where that genus species came from, but my understanding is that lager yeast is a decedent from a cross between wine yeast (beyanus) and ale brewing yeast.  Wines are typically produced in coastal regions where the overnight temperatures drop to a fairly cool temperature with moderate humidity, so I could understand how lager yeasts could be a decedent of saccharomyces beyanus (wine yeast). Wine is also typically fermented at cooler temperatures when compared to ale yeast, so the cross between the two species is understandable: the maltose and maltotriose fermentation coming from the cerevisiae and the affinity for cooler temperatures from beyanus.

Back to the question, ale yeast performs better at higher temperature because that is how the environment was that the yeast came from.  Again, it’s not to say that ale yeasts definitely can’t ferment at cooler temperatures, they can, just might be slower and produce more neutral beer (ex. K-97 at cooler temperatures).

What impact, in general, does temperature have on fermentation and production of flavors?


Fermentation temperature is an “environmental condition” similar to OG, pH, pressure, pitch rate, etc.  In general, warmer temperatures will increase fermentation speed, increase ester production, and increase overall yeast flavors.  At cooler temperatures, yeast produce a more neutral beer, in general. 

This image shows the Safbrew WB-06 speed of fermentation (drop in degrees Plato) over time at three different fermentation temperatures: 16, 20, and 24°C (60.8, 68 and 75.2°F).  As you can see, the 16°C fermentation takes 6 days longer than the 24°C!


What I think is interesting is that different strains perform different ways.  Here is an image of how one of the Fermentis strains, Safbrew WB-06, performs in cooler temperatures, where it produces more isoamyl acetate (banana flavor).

Unfortunately (and fortunately for us as brewers), there are these differences between strains, where some will produce more of a certain chemical at lower temperatures, where others will produce more at higher temperatures.  Generally speaking though, yeast will produce more flavor compounds at higher temperatures.


What are the flavors produced by ale yeast?  

Ale yeast produce a wide variety of flavor and aroma compounds.  It is important to remember that the yeast is producing these compounds to develop the aroma and flavor in beer, they are simply just living in the environment that the brewer puts them into and most flavor and aroma compounds can be related to the stress of the yeast.  If you read the first installment of this Q&A with David and I and you took the time to look at that HUGE pdf image that I had him put in, you will see hundreds of compounds produced and altered by the yeast.  Each of those will have a different flavor and aroma and more importantly, a different human threshold.

The main flavors that brewers care/think about are phenolics (covered in the last installment of this), alcohols, and esters. 


What causes ale yeast to produce more or less of these esters? 

Esters are generally created in stressful environments.  Esters are actually a compound that is formed by the yeast or simply by accidently being bound in the aging beer.  It is the combination of different alcohols and carboxylic acids.  More esters are generally produced in warm fermentations, wort with low dissolved oxygen (Acetal CoA can be in excess in low O2 environments), lower pitch rates (more cell growth), and tall thin fermenters.  Generally, less esters are produced with an increased fermenter pressure.  It is also important to understand the different human threshold levels (ex. isoamyl acetate has a human threshold of 1.4ppm while ethyl acetate has a human threshold of 33ppm).

If a brewer wants to make extremely "clean" ale with very little ester, what advice would you give him or her?


In general, if you want to create a more neutral beer (low ester), you would over pitch slightly, keep the fermentation cooler than usual and if possible, keep some back pressure on the fermentation (not easy for home brewers, I know).  In addition, strain selection is important.  If a strain is more likely to produce esters in comparison to another, obviously, choose the low ester producer.  The same can be said about higher (superior) alcohols.
  

If a brewer wants to enhance these flavors (esters) what advice would you give?


Basically… the opposite of what I said above.  Choose a strain that is known to produce a lot of esters and higher (superior) alcohols.  Ferment warm, with a low pitch rate and little back pressure.

You have all been told that esters are bad, esters are neither bad or good, they are a tool for you to shape and create the beer you want.  Some fruity ale esters are important in many English beers, and in american , IPA, DIPAs, Belgians, and German Wheat beers

Ale yeast can also produce Phenolic flavors... Belgian flavors how does a brewer enhance these flavors?


The best ways to increase the phenolic flavor in beer is ingredient selection and strain selection.  In order for the yeast to produce phenolic flavors, they need the precursors (ex. ferrulic acid for 4-vinyl-guaiacol {4-VG}) and the yeast need the POF+ (phenolic off flavor positive) phenotype.  Some strains have that and others do not.

The malts that are highest in ferrulic acid are wheat malts.  In addition to the malt having that compound, the brewer can use step mashing to promote the extraction from the ingredients.  The rest that you will want for the ferrulic acid would be somewhere around 109-113°F.

So practically, to make a great abbey style ale, you need some wheat and you need to step mash?


Yes, and you need a yeast that has the POF+ phenotype.  Now, I have to make a comment that maltsters, currently, are doing a great job at modifying the malt, so the step mash isn’t completely necessary… it just is if you want to increase the phenolic expression by the yeast.

Are there specific sugars that ale yeast doesn't digest?   And how can brewers know what malts are high in these sugars?   


There is a specific group of sugars that ale yeast (typically) won’t ferment: dextrins.  Dextrins are a group of complex carbohydrates that most yeast are unable to pass across their membranes.  There are malts that are named specifically dextrin malt.  Some are hidden in the name (ex. "Carapils"). 

So wort composition is important?


Wort compositions is very important. 

When looking at the visualization above, it is easy to see that there is a portion of the mash that is not fermentable.  This depiction also includes the proteins and other compounds, but the idea is there,  generally for malt derived wort, only 70% of what you are extracting during your mash and lauter is fermentable.  The dextrins can be made fermentable with enzyme additions, but that isn’t something that most homebrewers are looking into doing. 

Do you think there is too much focus by the majority of brewers on limiting ester flavors"?  in other words do you think many brewers now think of any esters flavors in beer?


I think that it depends on the beer style you are trying to make.  Obviously, there are certain styles that you don’t want esters in, but there are others that you want a lot of esters in (Belgian styles usually have higher amounts of esters).  What I have been promoting in the last decade is, it doesn’t matter if your beer fits a certain style guideline or if it doesn’t.  usually, you are making the beer for yourself and your friends and in that way, you should make whatever type of beer you want to: low or high ester amounts.  If you are looking to enter a competition, then I would say, try to follow what the BJCP says; after all, the BJCP was created for homebrew competitions and it clearly states that in the opening of the document.

What unwanted off flavors can ale yeast produce?   and how do you limit them?


There are simply too many to list and how to limit them all. 

I will cover the big ones here but most can be limited by thinking about the stress level of the yeast:

Cidery notes – generally can be explained as a lack of yeast nutrition due to adjunct addition – avoid by decreasing the amount of adjunct or addition of a complex yeast nutrient (not just DAP) (Diammonium Phosphate)

Excess sulfur – generally due to autolysis – avoid by moving the beer to secondary after fermentation slows/ends

Meaty notes – partially or fully autolyzed yeast – avoid by moving the beer to secondary after fermentation slows/ends or make sure the alcohol level isn’t too high (alcohol degrades cells)

Aldehydes – produced naturally during fermentation and are later reabsorbed by yeast – allow the beer to be in contact with yeast for more time

Diacetyl (vicinal diketones {VDK}) – produced naturally during the growth phase by yeast due to the lack of Valine and Isoleucine (amino acids) and is a byproduct of the yeast synthesis of these two amino acids.  Yeast will naturally absorb and assimilate this after the sugar fermentation, however it is also produced by bacteria and if you have an infection, the yeast will never be able to assimilate it all.

Soapy notes – fatty acid degradation and dead or inactive yeast degradation – avoid by moving the beer off the yeast, especially if it is a high alcohol environment

Note:  Having the yeast in contact with the beer for long periods of time is rarely a problem in home brewing.   In home brewing we are generally not dealing with amounts of yeast that can harm our beer.  But when you are brewing a huge OG beer, or adding fruit, wood, spices etc... you might consider secondary fermentation.

What general advice would you give new and intermediate brewers about brewing an ale?



Ale fermentation is the most common for home brewers because it doesn’t necessarily require any extra equipment for cooling the fermentation.  Remember that yeast do produce heat as a byproduct of fermentation, so fermenters will heat up in high fermentation.  In general, ales are more forgiving, so the brewer doesn’t need to have an exact fermentation temperature.  Additionally, understand that there are a lot more flavors in beer than just the yeast.  Malts, hops, water and adjuncts all contribute something to the flavor of the beer and understanding all of those as well will help you make the best beer you have ever made.  Yeast is the most complex part of the beer, because it is (usually) the one living part of the beer; the hops have been harvested off the bine and the barley has been harvested and malted.  For brewing ales, I always suggest to start with the suppliers guidelines and then experiment from there as it will give you a baseline and starting point (ex. Fermentis produces the 11.5g sachets for 5 US gallons of beer, but you could always use more or less to find out what happens).  We also recommend a temperature range, but you can ferment above or below that.  That is the exciting part of homebrewing to me… you can do whatever you want and make it completely your own!

Monday, February 22, 2016

Fun Brewing Weekend: Belgian by Choice

Sometimes I think I was born in the wrong time.  I know I should have been a knight battling dragons, or a member of the Rat Pack.    And sometimes I think that I was born in the wrong country. Don't get me wrong, I love this country most of the time.  But I really love Belgian beers.  I love the complexity, the philosophy, and the traditions.  I read books about Belgian (and German) beers.  I dream of sitting in a brick paved town square, on an autum day in a little town in Belgium with my SWMBO sampling the beers.  I am all about, "brew what you can, with what you have, where you are". It is the brewer not the equipment, or the precise process.

This weekend, like many before it, was all about the Belgians.  Saturday, Mark Anthony and I brewed a belgian blond that we will age on raspberries for a couple of weeks.  "Allegement al la Framboise".  I have made it before, or at least something very similar.  My memories of it may be romanticized, but I think it was pretty excellent.   Looking forward to it.  And if memory serves me, the SWMBO likes it too.

Mark Anthony and I also did loads of brewery house keeping,  checking on gravities, fining a batch of Kolsch, dividing the recent spoils of our efforts.  The strawberry wine has dropped to under 1.  It is sitting at .97.  Next steps stabilize, degas, clarify, and then back sweeten.  Then get some more going.  I may make make the dragons blood everyone is talking about on my wine making forums. Scaling it down to a 1 gallon batch. Or if i get really adventurous, Ill make Mountain Dew Wine.(yes it's a thing, look it up)

beautiful mash
Sunday was brewday at John's.  With John, Mark Anthony, and Jake (intermittent but still very helpful).   We set out to brew and American Farmhouse Ale, inspired by Boulevard Tank)  7.  We call it " Murican #7"The day began, as it always does, the night before with water treatments. John had 8 gallons ready for us. Today would be our simple water profile,  knock all of the choramines out, treat with 5.2 stabilizer.  boom instant, nearly perfect brewing water.

taste your mash.  trust me.  you'll know!
My brew crew is still kinda new to brewing.  They have passion, and they are gaining in knowledge and experience.  But like all new brewers, they are hyper critical of their own successes and failures.  It was time to teach them a lesson.  They needed to know how good they have become.  So I repackaged some of the beer we have made.  I told them it was from a friend who had won some NHC awards and I served it to them.  They tasted, they smiled.  They raved about the quality... they asked about the processes.  And then I hit them with the fact that they, in fact, had brewed these beers.   I think my rouse worked.  I think they now know how good they are becoming.


5 hours after pitch.
Belle Saison is a Monster!
Sunday's beer was a partial mash.   With 10.7 lbs of grain and 1lb of sugar, and 1 lb of DME,  We hit 1.080.   Which is .03 higher than where we wanted to be.  But we were learning some new processes, and we did a 2 hour boil.  Yes, two hours.  It was only supposed to be 90 minutes but I kinda wasn't focused enough and (hey is that a squirrel? wanna ride bikes?) we over sparged. The easy solution is the extend the boil.  Our mash efficiency was lower than expected, our brew house efficiency was a little higher... In the end we got where we expected to be.    We made a vitality starter again.  Glad we did, we overshot a bit, and the yeast will need help to get where it needs to go.

We announce the contest winners later on today.  And the yeast series picks up again tomorrow.

That's all for now sports fans!
Prost.

Friday, February 19, 2016

Your First All Grain.. Learn to Mash Grains STEP BY STEP


This is the first blog in a series of blogs on "your first"  Designed to help newer brewers try brewing techniques for the first time.

So as most of you know I am a fan of partial mash.  I can argue, quite compellingly that partial mash is the best method for most home brewers to follow.  With nominal equipment you can make excellent beer by using partial mash. To make a good partial mash, you have to learn how to mash grains. I also realize that many of you are intimidated by partial mash, and large all grain brewing.   You read the forums, and you hear us talking. It all sounds so foreign.  Vorlauff, sparging,  Mash pH,  Equal Runnings....So...with out further adieu... I present "Your first all grain"   A step by step approach to your first grain mash using small batch BIAB.

The whole idea here is that you probably have everything you need to make a 1 - 2.5 gallon batch of beer at home.   You might need a paint strainer bag,  you might need a 2 gallon bucket.  If you have a Mr Beer LBK, you are fine.   The pot you use for extract is fine.  (4 to 5 gallons).

In this recipe we're making a 2 gallon batch Bell's Two Hearted Ale. of Here is a list of what you will need;  if you've been extract brewing you probably have most of this stuff.

The Equipment
The pots you use for extract are big enough for a 1 gallon,
All grain batch of beer.
  • 5 gallon bucket
  • 4- 5 gallon kettle
  • 5 gallon paint strainer bag
  • a large spoon
  • brewing thermometer
  • a colander that fits on your kettle, mine doesn't fit so i put a spoon next to it!
  • a 2 gallon food grade bucket (They're about $6 to $7 at your LHBS)
  • an air lock 
  • Hydrometer or Refractometer - not strictly necessary but nice to have.
  • A spray bottle full of clean water
  • A Volume dip stick... wait what?   What the heck is that?  
    • Simple take a wooden spoon and put one gallon of water in your kettle,  mark the spot where one gallon is, then two gallons, mark the spot where the water is, then repeat to volume of the kettle.
For now Camden
and 5.2 stabilizer
are your only
water adjustments!
The Chemicals
  • OxiClean Free - Good general purpose cleaner
  • Star San
  • Camden Tablets - buy the small package
  • 5 Star 5.2 pH stabilizer - yes there are other ways to adjust water, you dont need to worry about them for now.
The Ingredients - This is for a 1 gallon clone of Bell's Two Hearted Ale
  • 2# of Two Row Base Malt,  any two row or pale ale malt will do,
    • But not Pilsner, Vienna, Golden Promise, or Munich.  They are all wonderful base malts, just not right for this style.
      • If they don't have two row, or pale (and why the hell wouldn't they?)  My next choice would be Maris Otter. 
  • .2# of Caramel/Crystal 40
  • Ask your Home brew store to crush the grains fine, or crush them 2x for you.  
  • 1 Ounces of Centennial Hops, 
    • if you don't have a scale have them package for you;  just show them this recipe and they will know what to do.
  • 1 Package of Fermentis Safale US05, or BRY97
    • Why not liquid yeast?  Why not Wyeast or White Labs, or Imperial?  Well because this is a 1 gallon batch.  No reason to spend that kind of money on a liquid yeast.
    • Further dry yeast comes pre packaged with nutrients and oxygen (bound to the nutrients) and gives newer brewers the best chance of success. 
  • Irish Moss
  • Yeast Nutrient
The process.

Camden Treated water
Ready for brew day
The Afternoon, or Night before brew day;
  • Clean the 5 gallon bucket and rinse thoroughly
  • Add 1/2 a crushed camden tablet to the bucket
  • Fill with 3 gallons of water, this is your brewing water, stir thoroughly
  • The camden will take any chloramine out of the water.  It will also remove chlorine, but so would the boil.  If you know for a fact that the only chloride in your water is chlorine, you can skip this step.  But most municipal water supplies are a mixture of the Chlorides.
  • Do not put a lid on the bucket
Brew day morning
  • Make some coffee  RDWHAC  (Relax Dont Worry have a coffee)
    • The golden rule of drinking a beer or two while you brew is for more experienced brewers.  
    • Im really lucky, SWMBO often
      cleans the brewery before brew day
    • While Brewing Your safe zone is coffee, or soda until you really know what you are doing.
  • Organize your brewery, you can not brew good beer amidst chaos.  So if you need to clean your area first,  please do so, I'll wait here...
  • Organize your brewing Chemicals and Ingredients
  • Clean and inspect all equipment.
The Mash
  • Put 2.29 Gallons of your brewing water into your kettle.
  • A clone of Bells Two Hearted Ale
    mashing away on the stove.
    • "OK WAIT  Why 2.29 Gallons?"
      • It's really not complicated.  The Grains will absorb some of the water.  When you remove the grains you'll have about 2 gallons of wort for the boil.  You'll loose about .5 gallons in the boil   So 1.5 Gallons will go into your fermentation bucket.   When you transfer to the 1 gallon jug, you will leave behind about.5 gallons of trub. 
  • Add 1 teaspoon of 5.2 pH stabilizer and stir
  • Heat the water to 157
    • "OK WAIT  Why 157?"  
      • Again it is simple,  the grains are at about 65 F.  When you lower them into the water, the water will come down in temperature to 153, which is where we want to be.
  • As the water is heating put your grains into a Bag.  
  • put the bag in the
    bucket then put
    the grains in the bag
    • the easiest way is to do this is to put your bags in the bucket so that the  bottom of the bag is in the bottom of the bucket and the elastic is around the top.
  • When the water is stabilized at 157 (here's a tip turn it off at 155 -156 it will still rise to 157)
  • Add the grains to the water, fasten the elastic around the top of the kettle.  
    • if it wont fit all the way around, clip it on. 
  • Give it a thorough stir, no dough balls should be present in your wort. But you also do not want grains getting out side of the bag.  
  • Set a timer for 15 minutes When the timer goes off remove the lid and stir.  Set the timer for 15 minutes... repeat....Do this for 60 minutes total.  check the temperature every time  you may have to turn the heat back on to keep  the mash between 150 and 155 F.   Don't stress if it falls over time, it will.  But do not let it get above 160.  Add ice water if you have to.  My thermometer has a clip and stays on during the mash. 
    • Congratulations you are now Mashing Grains in an all grain batch of beer!
  • At the end of the mash, pull the bag and set it on the colander.  Let it drain into the wort.
  • Check the volume, use the dip stick you made,  it should be about 2 gallons, if it isn't then squeeze the bag until it is at 2 gallons.  
    • You will not extract tannins by squeezing, you are not that strong.  
      • Tannins are extracted by incorrect pH levels, and by heat!
The Boil

If your stove has a
ceramic top, put the
kettle over 2 burners!
Both set to high!
From here on it is just like an extract batch.  The only difference is you are boiling the entire volume of wort, There will not be an addition of water into the fermenter.

(.1 ounce First Wort Hop; .2 ounce 25 mintue;  .4 ounce 5 minute, .3 ounce 7 day dry hop)
  • Immediately Add .1 ounce of Centennial Hops to the wort as soon as you pull the bag and are draining. 
    • This is called first wort hopping.  Some recipes will want you to do this others wont. 
  • Bring the wort to a boil When it has been boiling for 35 minutes add .2 ounces of Centennial Hops to the wort  (25 minute to go addition)  
  • With 10 minutes to go in the boil add your Irish Moss (1 teaspoon) 
  • With 10 minutes to go in the boil add your yeast Nutrient (1 teaspoon)
  • With 10 minutes to go in the boil add your wort chiller if you have one.  
    • if you do not have a wort chiller,  put a stainless steel spoon in the wort at this time to sanitize.
    • Clip your thermometer to the kettle again, it also needs to sanitize
  • Allow the wort to boil for another 20 minutes then add .4 ounces of Centennial Hops to the boil. (5 minutes to go at this point)
  • At 60 minutes turn off the heat and move the kettle off of the burners.
  • Chill the batch.  If you don't have a wort chiller, you can use ice water in the sink, it will still chill in short order, remember it is only a 1 gallon batch.  
    • put the kettle full of wort into a sink that has 2" of ice water.  use the sanitized spoon to stir the wort. do not take the spoon out of the wort, you could contaminate it.  
  • When the wort is at 65 to 70 degrees you are done chilling.
  • Sanitize the 2 gallon bucket; use star san and a soft sponge if necessary.  Do not scratch it!
  • Aerate: pour the wort into the bucket vigorously. (you may want to leave behind the break material.  If you do, pour all but the break material into the bucket, dispose of break)
    • The pour the wort vigorously back into the kettle
    • Then back into the bucket.
  • During one of these pours catch some of the wort in a sanitized small plastic cup.  This wort will not return to the batch ever.  It is for your gravity reading
    • Take a gravity reading. 
  • Pitch your yeast 1/2 a package of US-05 - 
    • Do NOT pitch it all.  You want the colony to grow and expand. More is not better!
  • Place the fermenter in a cool dark place for 14 days, leave it alone. 
  • On day 15 Wash your hands.  Then carefully open the fermenter.   
    • It is a good idea to have a spray bottle with some StarSan solution with you when you do this.   It allows you to easily sanitize everything!
    • Set the lid onto a sterile surface - like aluminum foil that you have sprayed with starsan.
  • Put the dry hops into the fermenter.
  • Be careful not to splash or create foam.  You do not want oxygen at this point in the fermentation process.  Just gently put in the dry hops.
  • Allow the beer to age for 1 more week before packaging.  
That's it.  You did it, you made all grain beer. It really isn't that hard.  And if you can make all grain beer, you can certainly make partial mash.

There are many many more things to learn about home brewing.  That is what makes it fun.  Over the years you'll learn to do step mashes, re-iterated mashes, partial mashes, decoction mashing, turbid wort extraction.  Eventually you'll learn about water chemistry, and the kind of oils that make up a hop flavor profile.  If you are wise you will learn to keep things simple, not to over complicate things. As you might suspect I field a lot of questions on this blog.  Most of them come as private messages. It also wont surprise you that most of the questions are either from new brewers who don't quite get something, or they are from experienced brewers who read something somewhere and they have now complicated the crud out of everything.  Remember brewing is just cooking.  Seek to understand why things happen and you don't need a recipe!

Eventually,  You'll learn your system and what really works well on your system.  All kinds of fun stuff.  But you'll always remember the first time you made all grain beer.





Wednesday, February 17, 2016

Valentine's Day Brew Sour Malz

SWMBO was gone all day... so of course I brewed again.  This time a 1.5 gallon batch of "lambic" apricot.   Why the quotation marks?   Well because I didn't feel like actually doing a kettle sour, or setting this batch in an open fermenter and hoping some awesome wild yeast fell in to magically transform my brew. I din't feel like fermenting and then pitching a lactobacillus culture.   So I used a technique I first learned about some 15 years ago, and was reminded of when reading the blog at homebrewexchange.net. There is an entire page dedicated to small batch, or pico recipes.

A pico recipe is a 1 gallon batch of beer.  And if you live in an apartment, condo or smaller space, it might be right for you.   Heck, I live in a pretty big house, and I still make 1 gallon batches all the time.  They're fun.  They're perfect for experimentation.   If you have been brewing extract and you'd like to try all grain, this is the way to get started.  I promise you, your extract kettle is large enough for a 1 -2 gallon batch of all grain brew in a bag beer.  You don't even have to have a grain bag.  You can just use a kitchen strainer.  Although a grain bag really makes your life easier.  And they're like $4 at Home Depot for a 2 pack.  I have a friend who only does 5 gallon partial mash (partial boil), and 1 gallon all grain.   His beer is really good.  He has fermentation temperature control, he aerates properly, he pitches healthy yeast.   He makes brewing easy.   Who's to say he's not on to something.   He has spent less than $300 on his brewing equipment, he has temperature control, and he brews as much as you or I, probably more.

Mash in low and
slowly rise to 154 F
I totally get where he's coming from.  Brewing is relaxing for me.  It relieves stress and calms the spirit.  With pico batches, you can easily brew when you get home from work.  Everything is faster, the water heats faster the grain mills faster, the batch chills in record time.

So Sunday, I brewed a 1 gallon apricot "lambic".  It wasn't a true lambic.  I used sour malt, or acid malt, or acidulated malt to "sour" the wort.   2 ounces with the mash, and 2 ounces for the last 10 minutes of the mash.   And it will taste like any other beer that has loads of lactic acid in it... nice and sour.  The difference?  The sour won't be created by an active bacteria culture, i.e. lactobacillus.   The recipe is straight forward.
Your stove can easily make
1 to 2.5 gallons of all grain beer!
Pico Apricot Sour
1.5 Gallon Batch
1.064 Original Gravity
1.016 Final Gravity
23 IBUs
7   SRM
82.5% efficiency

1.7 # of  Cargill IdeaPils - Great Reliable Pilsner Malt
1.3 # of  Cargill Malted White Wheat
.2 Ounces of Cargill Acidulated Malt
.2 Ounces of Cargill Cara 60
.2 Ounces of Cargill Acidulated Malt (last 10 minutes of mash)
.2 Ounces of Centennial, First Wort Hops  2.1 AAUs  
1/2 a package of US05  (I often use Abbaye for this but I was out).

Simple mash,  I dough in at what ever temperature my sink water is at, when it is turned to it's hottest setting.  Then I rise to 154 F.  I rest for about 40 minutes to an hour.  Then I mash out, and start the boil.   That's it.  Simple, and It goes quickly.   The batch is chlled, aerated for 15 minutes, then the yeast is pitched.   That is all there is to this.  Trust me you can make a 1 gallon batch of all grain beer on your stove top.  Even if you never have before.   In a couple of weeks I will be joined by a friend who has never made an all grain batch, and we will be taking him through the entire process and posting about it.  So stay tuned.

"Wait, you didn't mention the apricots..." right... I didn't. There is no great magic to fruit flavorings.   You can use Frozen fruit in the secondary fermentation, or you can just use fruit extract from your local home brew supply shop.  I tend to do both.  For this batch i will be adding 1 package of frozen apricots from WalMart into secondary, and then at bottling Ill probably add .75 ounces of apricot flavor extract.

Apricot Sour, comes out a nice orange color too!
The batch is fermenting like crazy right now. With half a package in 1.5 gallons,  I expect a quick, clean fermentation.   Probably ready to go to secondary this weekend.  In about 2 weeks this will be ready to drink.   And it is one heck of a beer.   With lots of apricot flavor and aroma, a nice sour background, and a hint of hops.   A great beer for spring.  And I am definitely ready for spring to arrive.

That's all for now sports Fans!  Prost!



Sunday, February 14, 2016

Lager at Ale Temps: German Pilsner Brew day STEP MASH... back in the counterbrew kitchen... by myself

Saturday Brew day in the counterbrew kitchen.  All by myself. The other members of the brew crew all had other plans.  MA is on a "beercation" in Denver.  Jake and John have valentines plans with their lovely wives.  So it was up to the old man to carry the torch.  To keep the momentum going.  So I spent Saturday doing general home brew stuff and brewing a 2.5 gallon German lager the easy way, kind of...

What is the easy way?  Is there a magic way to make a lager at home?  Is there a way to ensure that a lager comes out crisp and clean, with out all the extra fussing with pre chillers,  fermentation chambers, and months of lagering?   Well simply put, yes there is, and it is all about yeast selection.

There are a handful of lager yeasts that work just fine at ale temperatures.  Particular strains that just don't happen to throw off many off flavors even at higher temperatures.   Just last week over at Brulosophy, Marshal displayed that you can use Fermentis 34/70 at 70 F and produce a clean crisp lager.  Now this is not true of all lager yeasts.  But some of them will work just fine.  So which one?  What yeast can you turn to for reliable lagers at ale temperatures?  Note, this doesn't mean un controlled fermentation.  You need to keep these around 62 F - 65 F.

  • Fermentis 34/70 - I've used it for years at 62 with absolutely no problems.
  • Fermentis K-97 - technically a Kolsch yeast, but you'd never know it.
  • Wyeast 2112  California Lager - Used it for years for my Champagne Lager
  • Wyeast 2124 Bohemian Lager
  • White Labs 810 San Francisco Lager -  Used it on Saturday! Doing great Sunday Morning.  This is a very malt forward style of yeast.
  • White Labs 862 Cry Havoc
  • White Labs 080 Cream Ale Blend
Began my brew day by racking a strawberry wine, and by checking on the gravity of a Belgian Strong Dark Fruit Beer... What?  you never posted about that!  Well no, no I didn't.  We do make some more advanced beers, and sours that I don't post about on this blog.    I also re dosed a Bret IPA we are working on, as of this morning there is a beautiful pellicle on the beer.  

Ground the grains fine.  I always try to mill my grains on brew day.  I don't know the science for sure, but I feel like the closer to brewing, the better.

step 1:  132 F
Today was a step mash brew day.  I was using the amazing Weyermann Barke Pilsner (TM) malt.  This is my third time using it, and now I am feeling a little possessive of it.  Planning what future brews I am willing to use it for and what I am not.  Definitely going into my upcoming Bierre D' Mars, Saison, Bierre d' Garde, and another lager.  But it's not going into the California Common, or any of the upcoming IPAs, etc.  It is just too special for that.  Too valuable. Too Yummy!

Today was all about the step mash.
The recipe for the "Die Achtung" Pilsner
2.5 gallons
1.048 OG
1.012 FG
33 IBUs

3.3lbs of Weyermann Barke Pilsner
.3 lbs of Cara/Crystal 40 Lovibond
.3 lbs of Corn Sugar Added in 1 quart of water as High Krausen is stable (improves attenuation)
1 ounce of Hallertauer  (4.5 AAU)   at 60 /70  4.5 Alpha Acid
Iris Moss
Yeast Nutrient
Gelatin Fining

Step 2:  146 F for 40 Minutes
Step Mashing is not hard, it is also not strictly necessary on many beers.  But I find it improves extraction, and flavor.  And flavor is what it is all about for me.    So I often step mash.  I brew loads of Belgian beers, and when you are brewing a Belgian, and you want lots of phenolic flavors, you have to step mash.  (More on that in another post).   The first rest was at 132-135 F.  I can get there with the 141 F water that comes out of my tap.  And that is nice.

Step 3: 152 for 15m
After 15 minutes I rose to 146 F  where I rested for 40 Minutes.   Then up to 152-154 F,  Then Mash out at 170 ish.   My efforts produced a delicious wort that clocked in at 1.039 OG.  That is 86.28% sports fans.  So you tell me if it was worth it.  There is a faster way to do a step mash too.  You can use boiling water to more quickly change the temperature of your wort.  But that wasn't an option for me on this brew day.  My other 5 gallon kettle has delicious Chili in it.   Truth told I don't mind it taking a little longer.  It makes for a leisurely calm brew day.  It also involves me more in the process.   

Nailed it.  
The boil was uneventful.  The wort was foamy so there was a lot of foop.  I always scoop the foop.  I have no need for those proteins in my beer.   Single Hop addition.  1 ounce of Hallertauer at 60 minutes.  Irish Moss and yeast nutrient at 15 minutes.   

Chilling the batch,
love the color
Chilling the batch was frustrating as always.  20 minutes is too long.  The ground water seemed to be at around 60.   But with a single coil in a sink full of ice water it still took 20 minutes. Chilling drives me crazy.  Eventually, I'll break down and buy a Jaded chiller.  But for now, I really prefer using 2 chillers at one time.   

I aerated the batch with my aquarium pump and pitched the pack of WLP 810.   Some people say 810 is too malt forward, and I am using Weyermann Barke Pilsner (TM).  So this beer could be a malt bomb. (fine by me, not what was intended but still yummy!)  Only time will tell.  But if it isn't super crisp, I'm sure I'll still love it.  I love malty beers.  As of this morning it has built a beautiful Krausen and millions of tiny bubbles are rising to the surface.   Should be another delicious German Pilsner.    As you can see, I have a fondness for crisp lagers.