Friday, May 13, 2016

THE ACTUAL TRUTH ABOUT YEAST: The Brett Episode; with Kevin Lane of Fermentis

Here is the next episode in the yeast series.  This one is long but awesome.  Espcecially if you are a sour or wild beer brewer.   Kevin has so much good information to share.  I know this one is long, but if you are serious about making Brett sour beers, it is a must read.  Fermentis

Sour beer brewing is less challenging than you may imagine, but takes far more cleaning, sanitizing, and planning than you could ever concieve.  If you are a new brewer, this probably isn't for you.  If you are more experienced, well then give these articles a read.  Sour brewing is rewarding, and you can make world class beer at home.  Much of this information is covered in our other posts on the subject.  Episode 1, Episode 2, Episode 3, Episode 4

What is Brettanomyces?

Brettanomyces isn't just another kind of Saccharomyces.  It is an entirely
different species of yeast.  Full size available ath the end of the post.
Brettanomyces (Brett for short) is another genus of yeast, not just a species difference like ale (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) and lager (Saccharomyces pastorianus). The genus itself is considered to be a wild yeast strain, but all yeasts were at one point in time wild; brewers from a couple of centuries ago thought fermentation was magical (sometimes I still think it is). Brettanomyces species have been cultured and are now produced in “pure” culture for use in brewing and other applications. Brettanomyces species are very different from Saccharomyces species, however one of the major differences is in sporification. The literal translation of Brettanomyces is actually “British fungus”. One of my favorite things about Brettanomyces is that people describe some of the flavor impact as “horse blanket” which refers to an interesting flavor component… the reason that people are taken back the first time they experience Brett beers.

What makes it different from ale or lager yeast?

There is a lot that makes Brett different from ale and lager yeast: the genus and species for one, the potential flavor compound production, the fermentation activities and the formation of a pellicle, just to list a few. What is important to know is that it is a very different organism and does not ferment the way that brewers are accustomed to, with ale and lagers. Brett have the ability to ferment out most of the carbohydrates that traditional brewer’s yeast leave behind; some even have the ability to ferment larger carbohydrates beyond tri-saccharides, like maltotriose. Another key to understanding and using Brett is that the flavor impact is greatly influenced by the time of use and stress factors.

Are there different kinds of Brettanomyces?

There certainly are different kinds of Brett. It is a completely different genus. Some Brett have been isolated from different regions of the world and some have been isolated from different industries: beer, wine and other industries (we won’t go into this). For both beer and wine, Brett is viewed, for the most part, as an infection. Some beer styles need Brett for the beer to fit into that style category (Lambic and gueuze come to mind) and can actually improve the flavor slightly in wines (research the impact on red wine production, if you are interested). The most common strains of Brettanomyces are anomalus, bruxellensis, claussenii, custersianus, naardenensis, and nanus. Each species will present different characteristics and flavor impact on the beer (or wine) and will have a different preferential fermentation environment (think S. cerevisiae vs. S. pastorianus).

What are the flavors produced by Brett yeast?  

There are many flavors that are produced by Brett, some that are the same/similar to Saccharomyces and others that are unique to the Brettanomyces genus. I have been fortunate enough to use Brett in both primary fermentation and as a secondary fermentation and the flavors produced are extremely different in each. The major sensory compounds associate with Brett fermentation, weather primary or secondary, would be 4-ethylphenol (horse blanket component mentioned earlier), 4-ethylfuaiacol (4-EG, similar to 4-VG phenolics) and isovaleric acid (smells like old, aged cheese).

Why is Brett called wild?

Brett is called “wild” because of the impact on beer that was primarily fermented with Saccharomyces and Brettanomyces ability to survive and ferment carbohydrates that are usually remaining after the Saccharomyces has finished. Again, I have to remind everyone that cerevisiae and pastorianus were once wild yeast but are now isolated and produced so they are more pure strains, however humans are doing this with Brett, so I can’t use that to explain why it is called wild.
Another reason for Brett being called wild, is due to the flavor implications. Beers that contain Brett won’t necessarily have a “horse blanket” or “aged cheese” flavor, but it is possible to detect those flavors if the Brett has been stressed. Actually, all Brett beers (meaning primary fermentation done without Saccharomyces) have a very nice, fruity character, similar but not the same as Saccharomyces beers. Of course, there is still some background notes of the “off flavors” produced by Brett, but the beers could be mistaken for Saccharomyces beers, by the untrained pallet. Getting back to the question, I think another reason for Brett being called “wild” is because they are present in the air and on the skins of fruit. Again, I have to go back to the fact that this is how humans started pure Saccharomyces cultures, but there is less commercialized Brett today (not to say that it will always be this way). Traditional lambic producers will use “coolships” (koelschips) for cultivating natural yeast and bacteria that are in the air during certain times of the year and with certain weather/environmental conditions. This allows any natural, or “wild”, yeast and bacteria to land in and grow in the cooling wort. If you ever have the chance to see one (there are a few in the US), it really is a sight to see!

Does temperature of fermentation impact Brett fermentation like it does ales and lagers?

Yes, temperature definitely affects the Brett. It is always important to know that any microorganism that is used in beer, wine, or any other “fermentation” such as bread making or cheese making will be susceptible to the environmental conditions such as temperature. Generally, Brett will have similar reactions to temperature as our friends, Saccharomyces.

So will Brett perform well at lower temperatures?

Brett will ferment at lower temperatures. Just how low… that is dependent on the species and strain (again, think ales and lagers). Depending on the species and strain, Brett will produce a cleaner flavored beer at lower temperatures, generally speaking.

So it will ferment, but it won’t put off some of the same flavors?

Exactly! Many flavors produced are environmentally influenced. An easy way to understand this is by comparing to ale or lager yeast (I seem to be saying this a lot, but for those who haven’t made Brett beers, it is an easy comparison to understand). If you are making an ale and you split the wort into two fermenters and ferment one at room temperature and ferment the other in a car, in direct sunlight in the South (like here in TX, in the summer), the resulting beer will be two completely different flavors. All other things the same, by only changing one environmental condition (ex. temperature, pitch rate, fermenter size/dimensions, ect) you will change the beer. This is the primary reason for having temperature control on fermentations. If you don’t have temperature control, your beer will be different every single time, with all  other things identical.

So, Brett produces esters, just different esters than lager or ale yeast?

Brett produces esters: some are the same as lager or ale yeast, but others are very different. Here, I will change the comparison. If you use two different varieties of hops in the same recipe, all other things the same, are you expecting the exact same beer? Answer is “no”. OK, this is different because hops aren’t living organisms in beer, but I hope that you can make the connection. As for the ester production, the rate at which and to some extent the esters produced are dependent on the stresses. Temperature is definitely a stress inducing condition as well as many others.

The reason I use hops as an example is because you usually aren’t looking for the same flavor profile as a Saccharomyces fermentation, when you use Brett. I mentioned some of the flavors above in a different answer, but Brett are able to produce compounds that Saccharomyces aren’t able to produce. This includes esters, phenols, organic acids released and a number of other compounds.


So stress and temperature have an impact, but what about pitch rate?

Pitch rate is an interesting topic. As explained earlier, the coolship method of cooling/inoculating wort was the primary way to get Brett into beer. Once modern laboratory practices were introduced, labs began collecting strains and keeping pure cultures. Another way that Brett is introduced into beer is by using oak barrels, which will harbor different yeast and bacteria, depending on the liquid that was kept in them. So, for both the coolship and barrel inoculation, the pitch rate isnot known.

For the use of modern, pure culture inoculation, the brewer is able to pitch at the rate that they want. Of course, just like with traditional Saccharomyces cultures, the pitch rate will affect the compound development during fermentation (both primary and secondary). General guidelines are that if you pitch low, there will be more stress and you will get a wider variety of yeast flavors.

Brett has a reputation for being a very aggressive fermenter, what is meant by that?

The aggressive nature of Brett fermentation can be described a couple of ways. As stated before, Brett can ferment “more completely”, meaning the sugars left behind by Saccharomyces in the same wort. Additionally, Brett forms the pellicle on top of the beer which limits the beer contact with oxygen and keeps the fermentation completely anaerobic. The pellicle will also keep other organisms from entering in a non-sealed container, like an oak barrel (for those who don’t know, oak barrels breathe, think the angels cut in whiskey production). A third way that Brett is aggressive is the speed of multiplication and culturing in either aerobic or anaerobic (the anaerobic cell multiplying is much more aggressive than that of Saccharomyces).

So Brett will attenuate a beer lower than normal ale and lager yeast?

Correct! This is what I mean when I say that Brett will ferment the sugars (carbohydrates) remaining after the Saccharomyces fermentation. Simply speaking, the more sugar that is fermented, the higher the attenuation.

Are there risks involved in using Brettanomyces?

There are huge risks involved in using Brett. When I was brewing professionally, I had three main enemies: lacto, pedio and Brett. If you ever visit production breweries using these organisms and they have a separate room or even building for their barrel aging, this is one of the major reasons why. When you introduce one of these organisms into the brewery (or your homebrewing system), it is very hard to get rid of completely. Once it is in your system, you have to do everything you can to get it out. Lacto, pedio and Brett like to be “that guy” who doesn’t get the point when you try to get rid of him.

Even with strict cleaning procedures, harsh sanitizing procedures and attention paid to all of your equipment, those organisms can hide in soft parts, like gaskets, buckets, cracks, scratches and any other surface or impurity in your system that is difficult to clean. The biggest problem with those organisms is that they will show their ugly/pretty face (depending on your opinion) until you get rid of them completely. They show because, like mentioned before, they ferment things that Saccharomyces do not. So, when you brew your next batch and use a cerevisiae, the cerevisiae finishes the sugar fermentation that it can and then the “wild” organisms finish what’s left.

So what special steps does a home brewer need to take when using Brett?

To be honest (and what I do) is keep it separate. I have a separate fermentation area with separate fermenters. I have a separate bottling bucket and a separate syphon. I KEEP IT SEPARATE. It is the easiest and best way to control those “infections” at home. It costs a little bit more to have separate equipment, but I am confident that I can still produce a clean, uninfected Saccharomyces beer and not have a Brett or lacto or pedio infection!

So guys, as we discussed in our Funkadelic mastery series, you really have to have separate gear if you are using any of the wild yeasts.   

Are there any special considerations when packaging or bottling a Brett Beer?  

First of all, know that there is the possibility of a pellicle, so if you syphon or when you are transferring, you may move some of that crusty, grey, mold-like cap to a different container. Know that if you don’t filter (I don’t and most homebrewers don’t) that the Brett will still be in the beer and will continue to develop flavors. Know that Brett can ferment more carbohydrates than Saccharomyces, so if you use speise (wort made for priming)  or extract or anything of the like, typical calculators will not work. You will need less of any of those than with traditional bottling.

Is wort composition is important?

Wort composition is always important. I think I have said it in previous Q & A’s, but the brewers main jobs are cleaning, sanitizing and preparing the environment for the yeast to be successful in the way that the brewer wants. Your entire job as a brewer is to make the environment that is perfect for the yeast, for the beer that you want. That being said, you have to figure out what you are looking for from the yeast and then brew to produce that environment.

Are mash temperatures then also important?  

Always, always, always important. If you mash in at 212dF you will only have the carbohydrates available that are in whole kernel malt. If you mash in at 173dF you will only have the carbohydrates available in whole kernel malt. If you mash at 100dF or 120dF or 151dF or any temperature below 172dF, you will have enzymatic activity from the natural enzymes present in malt (if the malts have diastatic power). I suppose that you could produce a beer by adding enzymes to the wort after that, but most homebrewers don’t have any glucoamylase at home…

We've heard that Brett can have weird reactions with Polyphenols and with Ferulic Acids, can you elaborate on this?

Polyphenols are the precursors for the volatile phenols that Brett produce to make the “Brett” odor. If the wort is lacking the right polyphenols, the Brett cannot change the composition and create those great/horrible odors (again, depends on how you look at it). The Ferulic Acid story is a little different. Brett doesn’t use the Ferulic acid directly to create its fantastic/disgusting (your opinion) flavors. Rather, Brett takes the 4-VG that Saccharomyces produces from Ferulic acid and converts it to 4-EG, one of the, simply put, Brett characters: horse-blanket. 

What general advice would you give new and intermediate brewers about brewing an a Brett Beer?

Buy fire proof equipment, so that when you are done with your Brett beer, you can pour gasoline over everything and start it on fire!!!  I am just kidding… I don’t even know if that would get rid of all of the Brett!!!

Ok, jokes aside:

(Kevin was joking, but many home brewers who brew Brett or other wild beers, myself included; use an entirely different set up, and minimize soft parts as much as possible.  As little tubing as possible, as few rubber gaskets as possible.  You have to look at your whole system. We have an auto syphon for clean beer, for brett, and for lactobascilus.  We have separate tubing for separate wild fermentations.   It never, ever ever gets used for anything but wild beers, and is stored in a different part of the basement.   The number one most important thing you can do is never touch any of your wild gear while you are brewing clean beers, and wash and sanitize your hands a lot, Star San does not kill yeast, keep a 10/1 bleach to water spray bottle handy if you brew sours!)

I think the best advice I could give would be to be very thorough with everything involved. There is a reason that most (possibly all) homebrewers don’t start with making Brett beers (at least on purpose!). Generally, brewers can clean and sanitize well enough to get rid of the Brett, but if you can’t you could end up having some “funky” beers or bottles exploding due to over carbonation. Using Brett in your brewery is similar to trying anything new. You have to understand it, apply your understnading, and then experiment with it. Some people do not like the flavors/aromas, others love that character. Some people like super hoppy beer and others hate it. It always comes down to what you want and the best explanation of homebrewing: you do what you want. Brett is slightly different because it could have a lasting impression on other beers, but still, just do what you want in your homebrewing and have fun doing it!


Additional Resources for sour beer
Themadfermentationist.com - Michael Tonsmeier's amazing site about sour beer.
Milk the Funk 
Sourbeerblog.com - really gets into the science of sour beers. great starting place.



Wednesday, May 11, 2016

This weekend's recipe... triple decoction Munich Helles

If you'll direct your eyes to the beer...then you'll notice
It is certainly not a 1 or 2 SRM beer, more like 3 or 4.
So there is a change to this weekend's  triple decoction recipe.   We are making a Munich Helles rather than a Bohemian Pilsner.   We all just decided that a Munich Helles would be more delicious during the hot summer here in KC.  And since Mark is out of town, and Bohemian Pilsner is a special favorite for him, we are switching to a Helles.

So this weekend we are brewing a 10 gallon munich helles with triple decoction.  A very traditional approach to this beer.   A lot of Munich Helles only have one bittering charge of hops, but we are updating the recipe with a late addition as well.  While this beer is certainly not hoppy, we still want it to taste and smell like beer.




We will be following our easy decoction method.  Our first rest will be at 132 F, we are skipping the protelytic rest on this one.  I am not convinced that modern malt benefits from it, and since we brew with very thin mash (often no sparge), the protelytic rest is somewhat ineffective.   So we'll enzyme wash at 132 and do a brief rest of 15 minutes before pulling the first decoction.  The first decoction will take us to 146 F, the second decoction to 154 F.  The final decoction will be a thin mash decoction (only wort no grains) it will take us to mash out.

The main thing I want you all to get from this brew session is that decoction is a tool that you can use to improve your beer.  Decoction can be used to step mash, to improve the clarity and mouth feel of your beer, and to correct temperature when you dramatically undershoot a rest temperature  (a quick note; there is no reason to correct mash temperatures that are with in a couple of degrees RDWHAHB).   It isn't rocket science, it is just a tool.  In fact, it is the opposite of rocket science, it is a very old technique.  So here is the recipe;

This is what a quiet hero looks like
The great Munich / German composer
Richard Strauss.
Quietly Protected his family during
the Nazi Regime, and preserved
great German Music written by Jews.
Ein Heldenleben-  (A Hero's Life)
10 Gallons
1.048 OG
1.015 FG
21 IBUs
3  SRM
4% ABV

16.5 # of Pilsner Malt (we are using Europils by Cargill)
1.00 # of Munich Malt

2.5 oz  Hallertauer Mittlefruh 4.4% AA  11 AAUs  @ 60 Minutes,  should contribute 20 IBUs
1.0 oz  Hallertauer Mittlefruh 4.4% AA  4.4 AAUs @ 5 Minutes,  should contribute 2 IBUs

Fermentis 34/70 3 packages. Rehydrated in 1000 ml of 1.035 wort during the brew day.

2 tsp of yeast nutrient at 15 minutes
2 whirlflock tablets at 10 minutes

The mash schedule triple decoction.

  • Rest at 132 F for 15 minutes 
  • Pull thick decoction 2/3rds. rest decoction at 150 F for 10 minutes, then bring to a boil stirring constantly, for 15 minutes. 
  • Return decoction to main mash add scoop by scoop till main mash temperature is 146 F.  cool the remainder of the decoction to 146 F then return to mash. 
  • Rest for 10 minutes then pull another decoction... rest, boil  return to the main mash scoop by scoop until the main mash is at 154 to 156 F  cool any remaining decoction to 156 F before adding to main mash.  
  • Rest 15 minutes.  Pull a thin (schluss) decoction large enough to create a mash out. 
  • Boil and add hops / extras.
  • Chill to lager temps before pitching 3 packages of rehydrated 34/70 yeast that is also at lager temps. 
  • Aerate this wort thoroughly before pitching yeast.  (if shaking, 3 to 5 minutes minimum)
21 day lager Fermentation schedule - you dont need 3 months to make a lager
  • 7 days at 50 F
  • Raise temperature to 65 F (Raise temperature 8 F at a time)
  • 7 days at 65 F
  • Lower Temperature to 35 F (Lower temperature 10 F at a time)
  • 7 days at 35 F
    • Add Gelatin Fining when beer reaches 55 F
    • After 7 days the beer should be clear and ready for packaging. 




Monday, May 9, 2016

General Updates for the General Good of the General Public - A fun read about homebrewing chores

So we have been busy, even though we haven't been brewing much there is still a lot of work to do in the Counterbrew world.   Right now most of that work is cleaning, and bottling home brew.  John is down right now with a torn achelies tendon.   The surgery went well and he will make a full recovery, but if you selected him for your fantasy brewing league, you may want to make a trade.  John's injury means that he and I are in a bit of role reversal right now.   John has stepped up to do the planning and keep us organized.   Jake and I are doing the manual labor part of the home brewing.   Mark is in Brazil for the month (rough life right?).   You can expect some posts from Mark soon about the state of craft beer in Brazil, should be riviting stuff.   The craft beer scene there is finally beginning to take off.

There was a lot of break
material in the fermenter.
Saturday I arrived at John's house and found his family in from out of town to help with spring cleaning, and his lovely wife already in full domestic mode.   (the eggs and bacon were great).  I was there to bottle up Hoptonite, our ridiculous dIPA.   The bottling went smoothly, I took my time and followed my process.  We ended up with only fourteen bombers of this hop monster.   Fourteen?  yes, you read it right, only fourteen.  Why so few?  And what would you change next time?   We only got fourteen because of two factors, First, we did not bag our hops during the boil.  That was certainly a mistake.  Next time we will be bagging up our hops.  We lost at least a gallon of the brew to trub and hop debris.   Second, we had a blow out of epic proportions, we lost a gallon to that.   So we only packaged 2.75 Gallons of beer.  But lessons learned, next time we will consider Fermcap to prevent the loss of that much beer.  Next time, we will attempt to package four to four and a half gallons of beer.



Here is the good news about Hoptonite.   The samples we tasted were unreal.   Hugely hoppy and not muddled at all.  I think we have crafted a world class dIPA.  And we did it with common sense, good advice, research, and technology.   If you haven't read the dIPA series I really encourage you to do so. We were enjoying our Pliny clone when we pulled the samples from Hoptonite.  All joking aside after tasting the Hoptonite, the Pliny tasted like a blonde ale.   Which is strange, because before the Hoptonite, I would have told you the Pliny was extremely hoppy and delicious.   So fingers crossed, now we wait 10 days or so and give it a try.

I also moved a couple of beers into the fermentation chamber for cold crashing.  It has been an unusually cool spring here in KC, so we were able to ferment the east coast IPA right in Johns basement.  Temperatures never varried by more than a degree or two from 64 F.  I also moved the "clean" Saison du Pirpaix clone to cold crash.  Although I don't expect it to clear up completely, it should still clear some.   Tonight Jake and I will bottle those up.  We will also hit August Hyppo with additional dry hops and put it in the chamber for cold crashing.  Should bottle up later this week. I moved a golden brett and the brett/lactic sour saison into the sour chamber. (yes we have multiple temperature controlled fermentation chambers, and we are adding a keezer and a lager chamber soon).  UPDATE;  Jake and I bottled the East Coast dIPA, the Saison du Pirpaix, and the Pomengranite Blonde.  The ECdIPA is fantastic, better than hoptonite?  No, not better but excellent in a different way.   The Saison du Pirpaix is probably the best saison I have ever made.  The pomengranite blonde was just a fun one off experiment.  Should be good.  Later this week, we will bottle August Hyppo.   We're flush with IPA and dIPA.  

I pitched a mixed sour culture into a golden lager we made.   The original intention of the golden lager was an easy drinking summer beer, but with moving and splitting up with the old lady, I never got around to lagering it.   The awesome people at Imperial Organic Yeast gave us some samples to try.  This mixed culture is called "sour batch kids"  Imperial packages their yeast in cans and guarantees over 200 B cells per can.  Their yeast is great stuff. As you know we are fans of dry yeast but, when you need a liquid yeast I recommend them highly.  We'll likely let that beer ride for 6 months to a year, stealing occasional samples from it, before packaging.   "sour batch kids" is a mixed clulture pitch with a low attenuating Belgian strain, a Lactobascillus, and two Brett strains.

Finally, John and I discussed our next brew.  I think we are scrapping the idea of an exact clone of Pilsner Urquel, and brewing a hoppy lager instead.   Well, we aren't scrapping it, just waiting for Mark to get back from Brazil.  That is an intense tripel decoction brew day, we'll need all hands on deck for that one.  When I last spoke with him, John was researching Firestone Walker Pivo Pilsner.   It would be great to do a couple of lagers back to back so we can use the quick lager method from Brulosophy.   So we may brew on Saturday and Sunday next week.   John's creation and a straight forward Champagne Lager.

Thursday, May 5, 2016

Trippe Decoction Bohemian Lager... is this the ultimate home brew geekery?

This is real Budweiser by Budvar
Brewery.  Bohemian Pilsner
So, here at Counterbrew we are blessed to have some great sponsors.  Certainly a lot of the brewing we do would not be possible with out the support and advice of the good people at Fermentis, BSG, Cargill, and Jaded.   One thing we do not do is a lot of experimentation and side by side comparison. There are already sites doing that, and quite frankly they do it damned well.   Brulosophy.com  What we do try to do is show you some easy ways to make great beer at your home, in your garage, or on your kitchen counter.   And certainly this coming weekend, I will be making and posting a very easy recipe for a great, simple blonde ale.   If you have never brewed all grain, this will be a good one to check out.  I'll be making Biermunchers Centennial Blonde.  My fathers favoirite summer beer.

The gold standard of Bohemian Pilsner.
But,  then next weekend.  We will be brewing one of the most desired and complicated brews a home brewer can tackle.  We will be brewing a triple decocted hoppy Bohemian Lager.  And we will be doing it the easy way.   It will be Grand Master Jake and me on the brewing, and John at the computer controls for this one.   His first time taking the reigns of the brew log, and piloting the ship.  (actually he has a broken wing right now and really can't stir a decoction for 15 minutes).   To make it even cooler, we will be using the quick lager method.  Mark Anthony is on assignment in Sao Paulo.

In that session we will be showing you how you can easily incorporate decoction into your brewing routine.  So if you have ever wondered about decoction this will be the post to follow, coming up in about 10 days. If you have ever wanted an illustrated, and partially video guide to decoction this will be your post.  I am posting about this early in hopes that those of you who want to try it have time to get your ingredients together.

Jake stirring a mash
out decoction.
I have written about decoction before.  It is one of my favorite home brew methods.  Basically you remove a portion of the mash, and bring it to a boil for 10-15 minutes then you return it to the mash, raising the temperature to the next rest.  You can do 1, 2, or even 5 decoctions if you want.  But most would tell you returns are diminishing after 3 decoctions. Kai Troester, the Braukaiser has posted fantastic videos, and information on his website.  Braukaiser.  Kai's work is so well respected and his process and techniques are so refined that he is often quoted and referenced by leading journals, blogs, and even the major brewing magazines.  If you are a very detailed, precise person, you may enjoy his approach to decoction.   Or you may find our dump it and don't worry about it approach much easier.  Both produce great beers.   No matter which method you prefer,  I strongly suggest you watch this Brewing TV video before you brew.



Soldier Svejk - Triple Decocted Bohemian Pilsner
The Good Soldier Svejk is a Novel
Beloved  by the Czech People.
If you've never read it, it is worth
your time.  Set in World War 1.
The novel displays the author's frustration
with the war, the ruling class, and the
absurdity of the entire situation through
the incompetence (feigned?) of the Svejk.

5.5 Gallons
OG 1.050
FG  1.015
ABV  4.6%
IBUs  44
SRM  3-4  (your software will not adjust for the decoction, trust me it is burnished gold in color)

8.5 # of Pilsner (we are using EuroPils by Cargil)
.5   # of Carapilsner added after you pull 2nd decotion

(remember saaz very wildly in AA% were using 3.75% here)
2.0  oz of Czech Saaz @  75 Minutes
1.5  oz of Czech Saaz @  30 Minutes
1.2  oz of Czech Saaz @  15 Minutes
1.2  oz of Czech Saaz @  0 Minutes

Whirlflok Tablet at 12 Minutes
Yeast Nutrient at 10 Minutes

Rest at 132 for 10 to 15 minutes, this is the enzyme wash  Pull a thick decoction, about 2/3rds of the grain.  Rest decoction at 150  F for 15 minutes, Boil Decoction for 15 minutes.  Return to mash one scoop at a time until mash is at 146 F.  Let any remaining decoction chill to 146 F.  You can add some of the wort from the mash to help it cool.  Rest entire mash for 10 minutes then Pull 2nd decoction.  Bring decoction to 150 F for 5 minutes, then brng to a boil for 15 minutes.  Return the decoction to the mash one scoop at a time until mash is at 154 F.  Let any remaining decoction chill to 154 F.  You can add some of the wort from the mash to help it cool.  Rest for 10 Minutes.   Pull thin mash decoction adequate to raise the temperature of the main mash to 168 F to 170 F.   Probably around 3.4 Gallons of wort.   Bring to a boil then add back into mash to raise the temperature to 168 F.    Drain into boil kettle.

75 Minute Boil.  Add hops as indicated.

Your cold break may look like egg drop soup,
don't stress, it means you did a good job with
your decoction.  It will all settle out. 
Chill to 53 then pitch 2 packs of Fermentis 34/70 yeast.   (the cold break will be insane, it may look like egg drop soup, do not let this worry you.  It just means you did a good job with your decoction)

We can get pretty close to 53 with the Jaded Hydra, but we have to finish the final couple of degrees in the fermentation chamber.

The quick lager method... Yes it works just fine, so don't argue about it.

7 Days at 53 F
Ramp up 5 F every 12 hours until the beer is between 65 F and 68 F
Allow beer to finish 10 days is a safe plan to follow
Ramp down 5 F ever 12 hours till the beer is at 30 F to 35 F (Add gelatin finings when the beer is at 50 F for super clear beer).
Allow to "lager for 7 to 10 days
Total time  is about 26 to 30 days.
Package as you normally do... for us that means bottling.








Monday, May 2, 2016

Moving with home brew.... and UPDATES on the yeast series / HOPTONITE

Lets face it moving sucks.   It even sucks when you are moving into a better place or a better life.   And it poses some real challenges for a home brewer.  Changes have come into my life.  And to be honest, I think they're for the best.   So the past week, I have been moving.  And cleaning all of her stuff out of the house.  That was a challenge.  But my brewing friends were there for me, as were guys from church, and most importantly my family.    But there was a challenge related specifically to home brew.  What to do about beers that were fermenting?  What to do about wine?  What to do about mead?

The answer was of course to move them to John and Beth's house.  To get them to a place where someone who knows home brew and knows how to care for active fermentation lives.   So Saturday we did just that.  We moved 24.5 gallons of actively fermenting beer to John's house.   5 Gallons of August Hyppo IPA,  5 Gallons of Brett Sour,  5 Gallons of a Lager.   1 gallon of strawberry wine, 1 gallon of Mead, 2.5 gallons of a Apricot Sour,  2.5 Gallons of a lager,  and 2.5 gallons of a Lambic I've been messing with for too long.

August Hyppo IPA
Hardly distrubed at all.
Hit it with dry hops as soon as we got
to John's House.
How did we do it?   With out splashing and oxidizing the beer?   Well that is a different story.   But to be blunt, we drove slowly the 21 miles from my old place to John's.  We took the back roads.  We avoided pot holes, and my daughter watched the beer like a hawk.  The beers were placed in the center of the car.  That is the point that moves the least.  So if you are moving with beer, try to get the beer in the middle center of the car.   By the time we got to John's the beers were stirred up.   But not shaken.  At no time did we hear any sloshing, or splashing during the car ride.  In fact,  I think they splashed more on the way to the basement than they did in the car.   Stirring the beers up at this point in their fermentation is probably a good thing,   It will encourage them to complete attenuation. Splashing the beers at this point could ruin them and force us to hop tea the heck out of them or add a fruit flavoring to cover an off taste.

When we got to Johns we carried them to John's basement / fermentation area.  And I was happy that the beers remained largely undisturbed.  The trub layer was a little cloudy, but the beers them selves were in pretty darn good shape.  Of course I wasn't worried about the sours.  Brett, for the most part, will fix it self.  And if we taste off flavors in any of these, we will probably just hit them with Brett cultures and wait 6 months.  Is this level of fanaticism worth it?  Maybe, maybe not.  But we worked hard on these.  I wanted to save them if I could.

Is there a moral to this story?  Yes, avoid crazy women.  The fun part isn't worth the other crap you deal with... wait, no!... a beer moral?  Yes, you can safely move your fermenting beer if you actively plan, and move them carefully.  And remember, if you do oxidize your beer you can simply hit it with brett and wait 6 months.  Then you'll have all kinds of great sour beer.

Some UPDATES (mostly for our benefit but feel free to read if you're playing along at home).

Hoptonite dIPA is ready for bottling.   The east coast IPA is probably close to being ready.   The samples of Hoptonite we tasted were among the best IPAs I have ever had.  Truly fantastic.  Jake and I will bottle at John's on Wednesday night.   The Saison de Pirpaix clone we made is also ready for bottling, as is another Brett Sour I made.  The Wild American Farmhouse ale we made is ready to be racked into secondary and begin its long journey toward awesome.   And the apricot sour is ready to be racked and hit with brett.  August Hyppo needs to be cold crashed.  The lager will probably be turned into a brett sour as well.  It hasn't been lagering for a couple of weeks so that is how we will save it. It's going to be a long night.

Coming up we are making an actual festbeir lager, and we are re brewing some beers we have made in the past.  We will be making the trippel that we all enjoyed so much.  Probably 10 gallons this time with a single infusion / decoction mash out in the big cooler. Easy way to make amazing beer.  That should be fun and educational for every one.  We will be using Cargill Euro Pils this time.  Excited to have a lot of this beer around.   We will also be brewing Alegement, the raspberry Belgian blond, and when Mark Anthony returns from Brazil, we will be making wine.   That will become a regular feature on Counterbrew.   If you just make 1 big batch of wine twice a year, and one 1 gallon wine a month, you are never out of wine.  And let's face it, chicks dig wine.

The yeast series will continue this week.  Kevin Lane and I have been talking about sour beer yeasts. And he has some great insights.

Tuesday, April 26, 2016

Funkadelic Mastery; Brew day Easy Brett Beer

As we brewed we
sampled my disaster
brew day, Brett beer.
Its excellent.
Sorry it's been so long, I am in the middle of a move, and I just haven't had time to post.

So last week John and I joined Mark Anthony at his place for a Funkakelic brew day night.    We set out to brew a 2.5 gallon batch of golden ale.  But not just any golden ale.   This golden ale was destined for the funky side.    This is the easy way to make a Brett beer.   Now, first a warning,  easy brett beer is definitely brett, but it lacks the complexity of a 1 year old 100% brett beer.  It is definitely brett, but you get subtle notes of leather, and horse blanket and cherry pie, and tobacco.  Not big huge notes.   More like a serenade and less like Wagner's ring cycle.

Fine crush, doesn't
seem like very much
grains!
John crushed the grains at his house.  And brought them over in one of our trusty "soy" sauce buckets.  If you are unaware of this resource, most Chinese restaurants have buckets and they will sell them to you for a buck.   They are stained with soy sauce so I wouldn't recommend them for fermentation, but they are really good for other brewing needs.

Just two simple hop additions.
We mashed and brewed like normal.  With only one slight change, we mashed at 156-158 F.  The mash bill was simple 3 # of two row, 1 # of Vienna, and .5# of  spitz malt. (an undermodified high protein version of carapils by Cargill's partner Muessdoerffer, really good stuff) Our goal was to create lots of long chain sugars for the Brett to eventually eat.   There were only two hop additions.   Both merely to provide balance.  We used up some old hops we had at John's.   But other than that, it was really just a fun normal brew night.

We did not treat the water for this. Well not much.  We used Five Star 5.2 stabilizer.  But no other adjustments were made.  Brett can survive in tap water no problem.   And if the yeast under attenuates and additional sugars are left behind that is just fine.  There are sours that I brew where I do a full modification of the brewing water.  But that is not the point of the easy brett recipe.   Having said that the pH stabilized at about 5.68, not too shabby.  My attitude about 5.2 stabilizer is this,  No, it isn't perfect.  It will not magically get you to 5.2.  But it will get you close.  A little acid malt and you are in pretty good shape.   No, it will not make your beer taste salty, it isn't that kind of salt.  So when you hear that dribble from someone, you'll now know not to listen to them.

The boil was awesome.  Mark's stove is a beast. I don't know why but it just cranks out the heat for small batch brewing.  The hot break was huge for a small batch.  I think that was due in part to the spitz malt.

At the end of the brew day we chilled the batch in the sink and pitched a pack of S-04.



If we wanted to we could just let it finish out, bottle it and be done.   But that is not what we are doing with this batch.   This batch will be headed for funky beer greatness.  This batch was pitched with Fermentis S-04 English ale yeast.  S-04 is one of the work horses of the brewing industry, and of home brewing.   It provides nice subtle fruity esters and is extremely reliable.  But, it is not the best attenuating yeast on the market.   So it leaves behind lots of sugars.   That is exactly what we wanted.  We wanted residual sugars and long chain sugars for the Brett to work on.   Well rack the beer to 1 gallon jugs this week, and then  when Mark gets back from Brazil, we will all sit down, enjoy a unpasteurized brett beer.  And then we will pitch the dregs of that beer into this beer.   It is that simple.   3 to 6 months later we will have a delicious Brett fermented beer to drink.  It will take on the characteristics of Brett, and it will darken some in color over time.  Not sure why.   We will be splitting this batch at racking.  So we may age some of it on oak and sour cherries.

If you enjoy Brett beers.  This is by far the easiest way to make one.   I encourage you all to give it a try.

That is all for now sports fans.  Prost!

Tuesday, April 19, 2016

The Clone Wars: Part 1

Do you remember you first time?

By John Borders - Contributor, recipe wizard, and all around nice guy.

This is the beginning of a series here on Counterbrew about clone beers, clone beer recipe development, and how home brewers can mimic some of the commercial practices to create great clone beers.  We will explore where to get recipes, how to tell if they are any good, and how to make them consistently.   We will be cloning and brewing; Pliny the Elder, Pliny the Younger, Heady Topper, Pilsner Urquel, Kentucky Breakfast Stout, and Westvleteren Abbey #12. UPDATE:  Several of you have sent private messages requesting Boulevard's "the Calling", so it is definitely on the agenda. Enthusiastic, and passionate home brewer John Borders is heading up this series for Counterbrew.   Don't let John's modesty fool you, he has brewed more batches this year than many of you have brewed in your entire brewing career.  Over 20 so far this year.  So he really has the fundamentals down.  And, he has a talent for cloning beers.  Somehow the right combination, of malt, hops, and yeast just makes sense to him.   Enjoy.   We welcome your input on other beers you would like to see cloned, King Julius anyone?  John gives his first recipe clone at the bottom. 

Do you remember your first time drinking one of the really rare beers?  Did you want to shout from the social media mountaintop about your achievement in sourcing, consuming, and enjoying that rare craft beer?  Or did you contemplate keeping it a secret in an effort to consume the sweet nectar all by your lonesome.  While these instances have been few and far between for this Midwest guy, the glorious occasion of scoring a white whale has happened to me several times.   Recently a friend brought both Blind Pig and Pliny the Elder over for a tasting.  

For those of you who are new to the craft beer world or have just begun “hunting” for the latest and greatest the industry has to offer, a white whale is a beer that so infrequently hits your area that a mere Facebook or Twitter post about it from a libation retailer breaks the local Internet.  A few breweries have really figured out the supply/demand equation that drives us wild as our mad dash for these elusive whales has us pondering their actual existence. Can you blame them, really?  By limiting release they sell everything they make, control costs predictably, and create loads of buzz.
The tactic of limiting production of certain, mostly high ABV brews, has become so effective that small stadiums of beer consumers have become willing to travel hundreds of miles – or more – for as little as 12 ounces of what some might describe as heaven in a bottle. For those who can drop the cash required to visit the California wine country to sip on Russian River 's Pliny The Younger, my jealousy is immeasurable. If you have the time and energy to drive through the winding roads of the Northeast to acquire as much Heady Topper the store clerk will let you take of their hands, I commend you. Or better yet, if you ever get lost en route to Chicago and end up in Munster, Indiana, a stop into 3 Floyds Brewing Company is as imperative as that last rest stop you just passed. Those three are only but a sampling of the most desirable, hard to find beers in the USofA. Even more of these whales exist globally as import gold. Ever heard of Westvleteren Abbey 12?
So, maybe you’re not in a position to schedule your entire year around white whale releases. You live in SoCal, and Burlington Vermont might as well be Honolulu. Well, you could trade Pliny for Heady or for Abner.  if you have something of equal scarcity to offer up, you could offer that. Or you could find a retailer with an online store, but be prepared for purchase minimums – possibly waiting lists. You can get one (1) can from Alchemist or Lawson’s if you add on six bombers from somewhere else that you hadn’t planned trying. But hey, you ‘ll get to taste a bunch of new beers.  Check local laws before you order online, some states do not allow this practice.  So what options do we normal, beer aficionados do when we neither claim desirable geographic proximity to these breweries or just do not have the funding available to acquire them through “beer trading”? The answer is, you search for an alternative. My alternative is to make it myself.  To head to the internet,  find some recipes, discuss them with my brewing partners, and make the beer myself. 


100 quart mash tun
capable of 10 gallon no sparge
or 20 gallon batch sparge.
Now I have been guilty of this searching, trading, and having friends source beers for me before.  I also must admittedly say as an all grain home brewer, my ability is still growing.  Luckily, I have a great team, and in the past 6 months, We have made over 40 batches of beer.  So what I lack in years, I make up for in consistency, and practice. The other benefit of brewing with a team is the splitting of costs not only of ingredients, but also equipment.  We have the ability to do a small, 2-3 gallon batch on the stove top, all the way up to a 10 gallon, no sparge system.   As a brewer, I am just now getting into designing my own beers, so up to this point I am what you would call a “Clone Brewer”. Basically, I find recipes for my favorite beers, or beer styles and I make it myself. It is fun, it is cheap, and it is addicting.  I carefully vet these recipes out before I brew them.  I'll write more on that at a later time.  You have to do your due diligence with clone recipes. There are a lot of guys writing recipes for home brew that have a lot of enthusiasm but no real experience. 
Now for those of you wondering if I have the capability of tricking your very advanced pallets into thinking I have perfectly replicated the illustrious Zombie Dust.  I am flattered by your regard but, I must let you down. I will never perfectly replicate the taste of Pliny, Kentucky Breakfast Stout, or Pseudo Sue; but in my efforts, I will in fact make something I am proud to put my name on. And in the end I get damned close.  Close enough that the differences are very subtle.  At the end of the day, isn’t that all we really want anyway?  A great beer, and to know in general the flavor of one of these great white whales?

My Zombie Dust and the real
thing.  Mine was actually
lighter in color...
My first clone attempt was of the aforementioned Zombie Dust. It was a fun time and as many of you in the craft brewing community, finding a recipe to closely replicate this gem is not too difficult. I did however luck into some of the real stuff to try while comparing next to my effort (aren’t friends business travels the best?). I must say it was a treat, I had my concoction in a glass right next to this near mythical beer, and it was glorious.
Since this first clone attempt I have made numerous cloned batches including several offerings from Russian River, Dogfish Head, and Saison De Pipaix by the great Belgian brewery, Brasserie à Vapeur. If the task of cloning these particular beers seems to be too momentous for you, I advise you start your clone-brewing hobby by making something that is readily available to you. A suggestion may be to try and replicate your favorite craft beer from the local brewery, or maybe even replicating the one that got you into beer in the first place which for me was the Sierra Nevada Pale Ale.
Home brewing isn’t for everyone. It requires a lot of time, effort and patience but can certainly be considered a labor of love. If your quest to find the White Whales in the craft brew jungle is as determined and noble as the Knights of The Round Table, I salute you. If your ambition does not run quite as deep, try making it in your kitchen; you may surprise yourself with what you are capable of creating!
If you have a favorite clone recipe you would like me to try, or would like some advice on finding great clone recipes, comment below and I will be more than happy to help!

Here's my Zombie dust clone - Oh and make sure your hops are fresh and well cared for it it the key to making this beer great.   Always adjust your recipe based on alpha acids.